Alpine ClubMay 4
The Alpine Club is the first club of its kind, founded in 1857 in London. They have a collection of 600 artworks on the subject of mountaineering, extending back to the 18th century. A nice assortment has been compiled by Peter Mallelieu, the “Keeper of the Pictures” and featured in the book The Artists of the Alpine Club.
These are some pieces of mine in consideration for a group show at the Alpine Club in London, November 2009 – February 2010.
They are mostly smaller works, done on location while climbing in the Tetons.
This pastel, 9 x 12 in. was done from Hurricane Pass on the west side of the Tetons. The fierce aspect of the Grand presented from that side is what the Langford party encountered in 1872. A branch of the Hayden survey, they were camped in Teton Canyon when they decided to make for the summit of the Grand and left with a party of 14, passing near Hurricane Pass. Only two of the original party remained when they reached the summit, and their summit claim has been disputed right up to this day.
This view is from the Upper Saddle of the Grand, looking south over the Middle Teton. All parties on the easiest approach, the Owen Spalding Route will go by here. The last 600 feet to the summit propose the technical challenges of the climb: ‘The ‘Belly Roll’, the ‘Crawl’ and the overhanging rock in the chimney, pitches that all involve terrific exposure. Langford’s failure to describe these unique features, the absence of evidence on the summit, and his description of features that seem improbable is what has lent credence to his detractors. Billy Owen made a lifetime career out of discrediting Langford and advancing his own 1898 ascent as the first.
Members of the Alpine Club were in the area with the intent to climb the Grand prior to 1898. In 1878 James Eccles , with his Swiss guide, Michel Payot lost their opportunity when several mules strayed away and had to be found. Being with the Hayden Survey they had to continue on to Yellowstone, and so lost the window. Another member, William Baillie-Grohman was in Jackson Hole in 1880 on a hunting trip and considered the prospect of summiting the Grand to be a ‘mere trifle’ . However he procrastinated his climb until a forest fire forced evacuation of the area.
This is the view from the summit of the Grand, showing Teewinot below. I have done three pastel studies from the summit, used as inspiration for this 9 x 12 in. oil, completed in the studio. At 13770 feet the solar intensity was such that my dark pastels were very hot to the touch.
This 9 x 12 pastel was done on a spring day at Delta Lake, looking up at the East Ridge of the Grand, 4770 feet above. I had only intended to do a short hike to a spot where I did a pastel of Teewinot Falls. The day being pleasant I wandered up for a few hours more to this spot and was so inspired I had to do a picture. Since I was out of food and and was tired I didn’t feel up to the task. However I’d forgotten my camera, so I knew whatever image I brought back would be what I could do in a couple of hours with my pastels. I was so thrilled to catch a nice image my elation was hardly dimmed by the fact that my van wouldn’t start when I made it back to the parking lot. Some critter had chewed through my fuel line and all the gas was spilling on the ground!
This pencil study is the view from the summit of Teewinot. As the notes say on the sketch, “One of the finest views in the world.” You are looking directly across to the North Face of the Grand. I have in mind to do an oil of this view, 108 x 26 in. I have some pastel studies done from the summit to help with the colors.
This view is from the third Switchback on the trail to Garnet Canyon. Its a very popular trail for climbers and day hikers. Most parties climbing the Grand go this way. This is the only oil shown here that was done on location. Its 9 x 12 in.
This view of the Grand is from the north, from along the CMC Route of Mt. Moran. I bivouacked at this spot to get some pastels done in the evening and dawn light. The next day, my wife Alison and a friend came up to meet me and we continued on to the summit of Moran. On the descent Alison fell and got a fracture in her ankle, and several nasty cuts and bruises, which necessitated our using the bivouac again that night. Fortunately I had a pretty comfy bivy, what with a Jetboil, a sleeping pad and bag. The next morning a cell phone call alerted the Climbing Rangers, who very kindly got a short haul helicopter rescue in progress. (See “Helicopter rescue on Mt. Moran”)
This is the view from the CMC Route on Moran, high above Falling Ice Glacier, which is guarded by the East and West Horns. This is a 14 x 36 in. study done in the studio from photos and a pastel done on location. I liked the directional slant of the right foreground rocks which lead the eye into the background. But I put grass in to get some more color, scale and texture….
Here is a studio shot of me working on the larger version of “CMC Route, Mt. Moran”. On the left is the ‘before grasses shot.’
This 16 x 16 oil shows the East and West horns from below.
This view from the Middle Teton shows the South Ridge of the Grand where most of the climbing is done. I have done several studies and one 54 x 72 oil. This is the ‘Yellow Version’ of the view, 9 x 12 in, done somewhat with Joseph Turner in mind.
sebastien pollet wrote:
January 23, 2010 at 10:49 am
Dear Sir,
I would like to point out that Michel Payot (quoted below) was not Swiss but French from Chamonix. He was my great great grand father.
KInd regards
Sebastien Pollet
“Members of the Alpine Club were in the area with the intent to climb the Grand prior to 1898. In 1878 James Eccles , with his Swiss guide, Michel Payot lost their opportunity.”
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IFRS Certificate Course wrote:
November 19, 2011 at 9:22 am
I probably will make the statement that You won’t be happy with more until you’re happy with what you’ve got. or could even Keep your love of nature for that is the true way to understand art more and more.